botanicolor

the ethnobotanic
of fibres and dyes

by luminousgreen


Natural Fibers

Natural Dyes

a brief history
indigo blue
indigo extraction
indigo plants
indigo dyeing
dyeing yellow
yellow dyes
dyeing red
red roots
red insects
dyeing green
bark browns
dyeing black
soap and soda
alum, iron, dung

Sources - Quellen
the three mostimportant elements used in natural dyeing are alum, iron and dung.


Iron is an essential component of the natural dye pallette. salts of iron (eisen sulfate, oxide, acetate) have been used since ancient times to fix dark colors, to influence the shades of polychromatic dyes (those giving different colors), for block-printing process and in the dyeing of indigo.
nankin is egyptian iron liquor (iron acetate) produced by dissolving iron scraps in vinegar, a process which takes many months. this is a very strong dye, which gives golden, rust tones of it's own, and is also a powerful mordant, combining quite permanently with all natural fibres and many dyes. iron gives deep, moody colors and spectacular effects, but is rather trickey to apply evenly.

preparing Nankin

Alum ,Potassium Aluminium Sulfate is the principal mordant (fibre preparation) for bright colors with natural dyes. it is found in nature in crude form of varying purity, often relatively close to the earth's surface. this mineral salt was mined by many early civilizations and valued for it's role in dyeing, in medicine for it's astringent , antiseptic qualities and in agriculture as a treatment for alquiline desert soils.

alum is essentially an acid in solution which is easily absorbed and bonded with protein fibres, but it must be manipulated with chalk and soda towards a more basic nature to be useful for cellulose coloring. overnight soaking in alum mordant is followed by week-long airings of the fibre, during which the fibre/mineral complex 'cures'. this processis repeated, often in combination with tannin.



dung from sheep or cows contains calcium and sodium phosphates and is used as a fixing solution following alum mordanting. the dung is collected and dried before it is spoiled by rain, crushed, put shortly to boiling water, stirred and strained through a simple filter. this 'fixing solution' completes the chemic bond between alum and fibre and removes any excess minerals which would pollute the dyebath.

sheep dung
collecting cow patties